Continuing the tour, now through the lagoons region, above 4000 meters. (August, 2005)
"Caminos hay muchos, pero hay que tener corazón viajero" (L.H.Dziekaniak, Machu Picchu, L & PM, Porto Alegre, 2002).
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Written by
Edilson Benvenutti

Hermoso Altiplano Boliviano / Lagoons
 
Today is August 01, 2005, and we have just visited the volcano Ollague. Now, we are going into the lagoons region and we will visit the the Eduardo Avaroa National Park.
Now we arrived at a place that is indescribable. We are in the "laguna Cañapa", altitude 4115 meters. It is incredible, but the landscape gets to be more beautiful.
Although the sun was very hot, in this altitude, the atmosphere is rarefied and the temperature is low, enough to maintain ice on the margins of the lagoon, even at the half day.
Very close to the "laguna Cañapa", we find the "laguna Hedionda". Besides the ice, this lagoon has a lot of borax. Here, we had the privilege of seeing an animal in extinction, the "zorro andino", that is a wild wolf very rare.
As everything here, this lagoon is beautiful and it has an impressive green color. If the temperature was not so low, I would dive.
After Hedionda lagoon we saw more three lagoons, Charkkota, Honda and Ramadita. Afterward we entered in the Siloli desert. Here, we found a mountain that was targeted by a big meteorite.
Soon after we find the "arbor the piedra", stone tree, showed at the side. This is the extraordinary result of the wind erosion. Me and Leandro in the picture.
At 5:00 pm, we arrived at the red lagoon "laguna Colorada". Although several sites indicate a larger altitude, the red lagoon is located at 4280 meters above the sea level. It has approximately 60 km2 and a medium depth of 35 cm. Here is really very cold, the temperature can reach at -25 C at the night.
Some parts of the lagoon presents islands of borax. In the evening begins a cold wind that impeded us of to stay here for long time (latitude 22º12'43, longitude 67º47'58). Although the intense cold, the lagoon doesn't freeze completely, because it is surrounded by volcanos, and the water is originated into springs.
The color of the "Laguna Colorada" is due to the sediments and mainly due to the pigments of some kinds of algae, that are food source for thousands flamingos also colorados, red flamingos.
In the morning of August 2, 2005, the temperature reached -17 C. Even so, we left in direction to the one surrealist place, called sun of the morning, "Sol de la mañana". This place is located at 4870 meters above sea level (latitude 22º26'00, longitude 67º45'24)
This place has intense volcanic activity. Here you can observe boiling lava, the fume holes that expel mixed hot water vapors and sulfuric acid up to 15 meters of height. These phenomena permit us to appreciate the landscape that goes back to the formation of the earth. Me in the picture.
Near to the "sol de la mañana", there is the Chalviri salar and a lagoon known as thermal waters "aguas termales".
The heating is maintained by the volcanos. This lagoon is located in the base of the volcanic area of the "sol de la mañana" (latitude 22º32'06, longitude 67º38'53). In this place, it is possible to observe the contrast of the hot water that pass through the ice on the margin of the lagoon.
Here, we spend some time to take a hot bath. In the picture, Leliz and Sandra.
To the south we found the Salvador Dali desert that is the most exotic place that we saw. This place really seems a Dali Picture.
This desert is surrounded by active volcanos.
After crossing the Salvador Dali desert, it appears the imposing Licancabur volcano,   with the summit at 5930 meters above the sea level.
The last lagoon is green "laguna Verde". The color of the water is due to the high concentration of metal salts, mainly copper carbonate. There is no fauna here, not even the flamingos.
Possibly the temperature was very low, because the lagoon surface was freeze. Anyway I don't remember to feel cold. Continuing in the south direction we can go to San Pedro de Atacama on Chile. However, we are going back to Uyuni. In the picture, Leandro, Sandra, Leliz e Daniela (latitude 22º47'20, longitude 67º49'08).
During the return we pass near the red lagoon that is at right.
At 4:00 pm we arrive in the "vale de las rocas" valley of the rocks. The valley is composed by thousands of rocks sculpted by the wind, a true work of art.
In the evening we find a good lodge "hospedage Los Andes" in a pleasant little city called Alota. Here, there is hot shower and also a fireplace. It was wonderful. The picture was tooke in the morning of August 03, 2005.
Returning to Uyuni we pass into some little cities. In the picture Culpinak.
After Culpinak, we pass in San Cristobal crossing through the "pampa Colorada". Here we pass near the south border of the salar arriving in the train cemetery, near Uyuni
In the picture, Margarita, me and Greco.
In the return, we went by train until Oruro. The schedules: on Wednesday and Saturday, at 12:00 pm and 7:00 am; and on Monday and Thursday at 1:45 am and 9:10 am. About 315 km in 7 hours. First class, costs 10 dollars. In the picture the Oruro station, in the morning of August 04, 2005. From Oruro to La Paz you should to go by bus, ca. 4 hours. It is the only available transport. There is bus every hours.





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